[Jim T]

:x
I am eventually tackling a corner of the allotment which we described as a no-go area with unknown archaeology.
 :shock: I was shocked to find the ground even more impossible to dig than I had feared.
I shifted a huge pile of bricks, concrete, iron bars of all shapes and sizes, wooden planks in various states of rotting and a great big wire cage.
But I am stumped to know what to do about the long thick bramble roots - they really aggravate when they stop your fork strokes in mid swing.

Should I cut them, or use chlorate or Round-up or just go on breaking my back with the fork and spade.

Desperate for advice :cry:

[Salkeela]

Light a big fire on top of them?? :twisted:

[muntjac]

i would start where the roots are   about 3 ft from the stumps and dig into them from a trench   using a pair of loppers or small hand pruners cut them thru and dig on till you have cleared them i have seen them myself over 1.1/2 inch thick and can relate to what your up against, but  waiting for them to grow enough to be able to round up them wil waste time . so dig and cut to the depth of 2 spits and just take your time without breaking the spade or your back forget the fork as welll use a sharp spade edge to cut the ground

[WG.]

If you don't need the ground for growing this year, you might want to consider killing them off with a mulch.

I am breaking in a garden (organically) at a friend's house and there is a big bramble patch.  I've piled on 10 or more layers of cardboard weighed down with big tubs in which I am growing stuff.  It might take a year or two but I am patient - no plant can live without light.

[Annie]

If you`re not organic you could try stump killer(sorry don`t know trade name).Do as Muntjac says then use this on the bits left.

[Jim T]

i would start where the roots are   about 3 ft from the stumps and dig into them from a trench   using a pair of loppers or small hand pruners cut them thru and dig on till you have cleared them i have seen them myself over 1.1/2 inch thick and can relate to what your up against, but  waiting for them to grow enough to be able to round up them wil waste time . so dig and cut to the depth of 2 spits and just take your time without breaking the spade or your back forget the fork as welll use a sharp spade edge to cut the ground

Thanks muntjac, My extra problem is I don't know where the stump end of the roots are cos the upsides were all cut away last August. Since then they have been sitting under there own soil and 5 tons of cow manure.

I am now going to put 16 sq. M of teram, over the whole area and plant corgettes and cucumbers and spuds underneath.
Perhaps the remaining bramble roots will then give up as suggested later in the string :idea:

[Jim T]

If you don't need the ground for growing this year, you might want to consider killing them off with a mulch.

I am breaking in a garden (organically) at a friend's house and there is a big bramble patch.  I've piled on 10 or more layers of cardboard weighed down with big tubs in which I am growing stuff.  It might take a year or two but I am patient - no plant can live without light.

Thanks WG.
See my reply to MJ.     So you would think I will be OK after this summer "mulching" like that.

[SkipRat]

I had a bit of a bramble patch on my new allotment. The lad on the next plot saw me struggling with a fork and spade, he kindly lent me his mattock and this made the job a lot easier and quicker.

[WG.]

Thanks WG.
See my reply to MJ.     So you would think I will be OK after this summer "mulching" like that.

Hard to say without seeing the patch.  If it is only 4m x 4m or equivalent, I'd be tempted to put the courgettes and cucumbers in containers on top of the Teram.

I didn't hack away any brambles and so my "mulch" is being held 4" off the ground by brambles - hopefully dying brambles.

[leeky]

vote for mattocking here. love swinging them, so just an excuse really  :shock:  3 huge * to come out too.