Allotment Gardening Advice Help Chat
Chatting => Equipment Shed => Topic started by: Glosterboy on May 06, 2012, 14:41
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Just been given a Mountfield M1 Rotovator with a 3.5hp Aspera engine. Model LAV 35/DA-261. No user or maintainence manuals. But, there are one or two helpful manuals within the manuals link. Before an attempt to start the engine I need to perform a couple of things. Change engine oil. But, I can't find any reference to an engine oil drain plug. Is there one? Any help with the location would be appreciated. I'm also intending to replace the old spark-plug. Currently a Champion UJ-12. I have in my possession a NGK B-2 LM. The equivalent NGK is quoted as B-2. Is the LM version OK to use? I attached a photograph. Thanks.
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It will be useful for you to know that the Aspera engine is in fact a tecumseh engine (made under license)
the manuals are available here - http://www.allotment-garden.org/shop/rotavator-manuals
I have two of the 3.5 hp Aspera's in a horizontal engine format, and they are a very simple engine, neither of mine worked so I got them both running fairly simply, so if you have any engine related questions, I'll try and answer. the biggest thing will be cleaning out the crud from the carburretor, once that is done, as long as the valves are operating (you can just see them moving through the spark plug hole) and the points are clean and gapped correctly, you should be fine, mine starts quite easily.
Grendel
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B2-LM plug will be fine.
There is a drain plug, it's on the bottom of the engine where you no doubt won't be able to get to it! I'd remove the fuel from the engine and pour the oil out of the filler cap if you don't have an oil suction tool. :)
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Thanks Grendel and Gwiz. Much appreciated.
Any idea of the points and plug gap details please?
Thanks.
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Stretching my memory, I think the points are about 18-20 thou, plug 25 thou.
You might find the points gap is embossed onto the points cover plate.
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OK. After an initial checking over it would appear both points and carb requires some attention. Can't see a spark and after a few pulls on the starter rope I would expect to see some fuel on the plug. It was dry!!! Firstly, I've removed the carb (pics attached). Please an "idiot's guide" on what to do next? Now don't shout. But am I being silly here? The engine is an LAV model. Lightweight Aluminium Vertical. When I check for a spark; ensure plug is touching engine block whilst pulling starter rope. If it is Aluminium????? Any and all information much appreciated. Thanks.
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Apologises for previously posting the same photo 3 times.
The carb is an Dellorto FHC 2013.
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You're going about it OK, Remove plug, lay it touching the engine (somewhere metal) it matters not a hoot if it's ally. Put throttle onto "start" position and pull the recoil. You should see a spark across the points of the spark plug.
The delorto carb is reasonably straight forward. Remove the nut on the bottom of the carb bowl (next to the springy plunger type of doo-berry) Take the bowl of (you'll see a large rubber o ring that seals the petrol into the bowl, remove this with care, and hang it up for an hour or two.
Remove the float and it's pins, and down the central tube you may well see the main jet which will unscrew. Be very careful when you do this as not to damage the thread that the nut that holds the bowl goes into. Clean the jet's holes using carb cleaner (wear rubber gloves and don't get any in your eye 'cos it stings to high heaven)
Also clean all the airways in the carb, reassemble in reverse order.
Any problems, shout again! :D
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Thanks Gwiz. My first job now is to purchase some carb cleaner. Taking off the air-filter cover I find that there is no foam element. Is it advisable to purchase a new one or can I make/form one from a new sponge? Cleaning the outside of the carb can I use WD40 or petrol or wait until I've some carb cleaner? Thanks again.
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the manuals or the carb are on the 'rotorvator manuals page, you will probably find the bowl full of sandy grit, this will be the remains of the fuel that has dried out and formed deposits. dont be afraid to be generous with the carb cleaner, the carb on my aspera was as bad as yours and a good clean sorted it. you man need a new washer on the little springy bit at the bottom of the bowl, its just there to empty the fuel out of the float chamber when you finish, but if the washer goes will leak like a sieve. also check the fuel tap, the little gauze filter on the tap can easily get blocked an stop fuel flowing.
Grendel
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Grendel, So the "push-button" at the bottom of the carb bowl is to empty the bowl of petrol after use. Not to prime the carb prior to use? Thanks.
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It's a handy feature to expell stale fuel......
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Grendel, A big favour please. Would you please send me the dimensions of your air-filter cover. I'm trying to establish if an air-filter foam element to fit mine is available to purhase? My cover internal dimensions are: Firstly it is egg/oval shape. Width = 65mm. Height = 70mm. Depth = 60mm. Photos attached. Thanks.
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Ebay
Part number 23410001
Fits Tecumseh (Aspera) Qualcast.
If you get in touch with the sellers, I think you'll find it's the dimensions you want.
The air filter cover for your machine might be somewhat difficult, but I do know a chap who will be coming to us next week to buy all the scrap machines we have taken in part ex. He may very well have the part you are wanting.
Do you want me to ask?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TECUMSEH-QUALCAST-QX-SUFFOLK-PUNCH-FOAM-AIR-FILTER-/120910833613?pt=UK_Home_Garden_GardenPowerTools_CA&hash=item1c26d8e7cd
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Thanks Gwiz. I now know where to purchase an Air Filter foam element which may well fit my requirements?. After reading through my last posting I also realise where a mis-understanding could be interpretated. I have both an Air Filter housing and cover. It is the Air Filter foam element which is unfortunately missing. Tomorrow is the big day of stripping down the carb and aided by Grendel's and your instructions a good clean. After which I need to check the points. An idiot's guide would be much appreciated. I've removed the engine block cowling/cover. Now what? Thanks.
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Not much to add really. Use your camera, take photos of where the govenor linkages go, use coloured tape on bits to high-light them so there's no way you can mistake what is what. Go easy on the bit's and bobs, they don't need to be done up like your Sampson!
I'm jealous actually, I haven't worked on a genuine Aspera for donkeys years!
Nice little engine, but do make sure you keep it topped up with oil as they have a nasty tendency to thow the con-rod through the side casing of the engine if you don't!!
I still have all the service tools for these including the flywheel knocking tool for getting them off.
Give a shout if you get into problems, one of us will be around and about.....
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this is the air filter - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200753101987
mine just has a sponge in it and works fine.
I used a 3 leg puller to get the flywheel off, watch out you dont lose the key that locates it on the shaft. my other aspera has a round air filter on it - original or not I dont know.
Grendel
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Thanks to you both; Gwiz and Grendel for your valuable information. Today I stripped down, cleaned and reassembled the carb. Prior to re-installing onto the rotovator I thought I would check the plug for a spark one more time. Lo and behold a flash of a spark was seen. Re-installed carb and after a few pulls it kicked into life. Very high revs and then died. This scenario happen each time. Whilst cleaning I did remove the "idle speed adjusting screw" to give it a good clean. It would appear this is not correctly adjusted. So, screw it fully in and then how much to unscrew? Is there a standard? Can you think of anything else I should check-out? Thanks.
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from memory screw it in then back it off 1 1/2 turns.
Grendel
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OK. The Rewind Starter is now not playing ball. Pulling the rope at half-way, three-quarter-way; it will recoil OK. But, when pulled fully; it will not recoil. I'm required to remove from engine cowling and manually recoil for maybe one turn before the recoil spring kicks-in. I've squirted WD40 within the "dog" area. The problem still persists!!! Any idea of why it will not recoil upon full pull? Or what I should check? Thanks. Photos of Rewind Starter attached.
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Could be any number of reasons. The most usual is where someone pulls the rope out fully when starting it, and it slips out of their grasp and flies back in under it's own steam. This has a tendency to damage the recoil pulley.
Another common fault is that the spring and/or the steel recoil housing becomes rusty allowing both to "grab"
It seems that you will need to take it apart. Firstly, undo the knot on the string and allow the pulley to rewind as much as it can, and then undo the centre screw. NOTE: the spring behind the plastic pulley will still be under tension and can fly out towards your face if you aren't careful or are unlucky. Wear some safety goggles to be on the safe side!!!
It'll all become clear, I expect, when it's been disassembled.
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OK, might be an unanswerable question? But, does this recoil spring look stretched? Just in case; anybody know where I can purchase a new one? Thanks.
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looks fine to me.
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Thanks Gwiz. That's one possible reason why the pull-rope is not retracting properly out of the way. As I've previously mentioned the engine is a 3.5hp Aspera/Tecumseh engine. Model LAV 35/DA-261. Correct rope length is my next thought?? I haven't the original. So, can't compare. The current one is 2.3 meters long. 90 ins in old money. Which to my way of thinking is too long. "61" (18.6 meters) vertical pull - horizontal engagement type". is quoted in the Tecumseh Technician Handbook. Grendel has previously mentioned that he has two of these type of engines. If he reads this message? Any idea what your pull-rope length is? Or Gwiz from your experience you may also know? Thanks?
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2.3 meters is far too long, unless there is a holder halfway up the handles like on most modern mowers so you don't have to bend over to pull the rope.
I would have thought yours should be around1.5 or there abouts.
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Thanks Gwiz. That's one possible reason why the pull-rope is not retracting properly out of the way. As I've previously mentioned the engine is a 3.5hp Aspera/Tecumseh engine. Model LAV 35/DA-261. Correct rope length is my next thought?? I haven't the original. So, can't compare. The current one is 2.3 meters long. 90 ins in old money. Which to my way of thinking is too long. "61" (18.6 meters) vertical pull - horizontal engagement type". is quoted in the Tecumseh Technician Handbook. Grendel has previously mentioned that he has two of these type of engines. If he reads this message? Any idea what your pull-rope length is? Or Gwiz from your experience you may also know? Thanks?
Its relatively easy to find the length of pull cord,knot the cord ,thread it through the hole in the bottom of the starter pulley and wind it snugly until it fills the grove allowing a bit extra to go out through the housing and pull handle.
The recoil spring in your picture, the spring hook is not quite fully seated on its anchor but should do so when properly tensioned.
There are a couple of ways to tension the spring and its harder to explain than accomplish but will have a go:
Once you have the length needed thread it through hole in the bottom of the pulley and pull tight,and fix in position making sure the spring anchor near the centre picks up the hook at the inner coil of the spring,you can test by turning the pulley a little to see if it springs back.
once you have done that take the rope to the out to the notch on the outer edge and wind for about 5 turns and it so it can't spring back.then thread the rope through the housing then handle and knot it lightly.then slowly release your grip on the pulley so it can rewind.
If all the rope has not gone in,grip the pulley,undo the knot,fish the rope back through the housing and hold in the grove again.turn the pulley in the tension direction to a point you estimate is enough to take all the spare rope in and thread back through housing and handle.
It is easier to thread the cord if you heat the end in a flame then pinch and twist into a point ..WARNING..you will be handling molten nylon which will bun if you you don't wet your fingers and twist it very quickly.If I didn't exlplain very well may be some one else can,or if I get time can do a tube vid
smud6ie
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mine is nowhere near that long as I run out of pull before I am at full stretch. - just measured at full out it is 1.3m from casing to handle.
Grendel
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I measured one in the workshop which was 35" but it could have been shortened, if grendels is 1.3m,to be on the safe side I would get 1.5m as suggested by gwiz and establish the exact length as per my earlier reply.if you can follow it ;) :)
edit: I should have added to that post that you should add an extra turn or two to tension the spring to allow for some rope stretch.
smud6ie
edit again:Bother I could have saved myself some typing,plenty of vids on youtube,this is just one of them :http://youtu.be/i3ZMVFi0yqY
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Thanks to one and all for your very helpful advice and guidance. The recoil assembly is now refurbished, adjusted and back on the machine. Seems to work fine. But, and a big But, petrol appears to be still not getting to the spark plug. I've stripped the carb twice and each time giving the carb a good "blow-out" with carb cleaner. The plug is sparking fine. But, appears to be dry. I've poured a little fuel into the plug hole and after a couple of pulls fires into life. But, after what a few seconds; dies. Am I missing something?? Any other suggestions of what I can do with the carb? Thanks.
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Did you remove the main jet and clean the centre hole and 7 other holes in its tube,also make sure the hole is clean where the wire is poking through in my pic or the fuel can't get to the main jet.
smud6ie
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Better view of main jet supply drilling
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Thanks Smud6ie, I haven't removed the main jet. It looks like somebody previously had attempted this operation because the screw slot on the main jet is damaged. I didn't want to damage it any further with my effort to remove the main jet. But, it appears this is my main and next operation if I want the carb to work. So, it looks like I need to spray the main jet area with a lot of WD40. And then what? Soak the stripped carb in what? In an attempt to release what is holding the main jet tightly. If I damage the screw slot too much. Therefore, not being able to remove with a slotted screwdriver. Are there other "ways and means" to remove this stubborn component? Thanks.
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Once damaged the jet can be difficult to remove,The best driver to remove it is one that just slides inside the threads so is the full width of the jet and preferably hollow ground so the contact is a the very bottom of the slot where it can get a firmer bite.
I have ground the longer interchangeable driver bits to fit most of the carbs i work on so as to not damage them and unlike conventional driver being all metal one can give them a sharp tap with a light hammer which can re profile a slightly damaged slot and helps loosen the brass to alloy bond that wd 40 doesn't seem to do.
One way or another the jet will have to be removed to clean the rest of the holes or the carb is toast.
smud6ie
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Well, touch wood, but, it appears that a few good squirts of WD40 has done the trick!!! Bit temperamental; fine tuning is required. Which is certainly difficult with a blown-out exhaust. Sounds like a tank coming up the garden path!!!!!!! Therefore, I require a replacement Tecumseh exhaust/muffler Pt No 30996. Within the internet I can't find an UK outlet for this part. Though plenty in the US. Anybody aware of a UK outlet? Thanks.
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Did you find the jet hole for the idle mixture? its the one on the main jet between the two lots of thread.?
smud61e
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my aspera engines sound like that - the standard small baked bean tin sized exhausts are barely more than that- there is a single baffle plate inside, with holes that dont line up with the outside holes directly, I did manage to get two last year, both of which went onto my engines (as both exhausts were more hole than exhaust) I am sure that anyone could knock up a new exhaust using a small food can in next to no time with just basic skills and a drill.
Grendel
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TECUMSEH-EXHAUST-MUFFLER-Pt-No-30996-/150810494415?pt=UK_Home_Garden_GardenPowerTools_CA&hash=item231d0185cf
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Once again thanks to one and all for your invaluable advice. Firstly, smud6ie, after much :mad: attempts I was unable to remove the main jet. I was just breaking the screw-head of the main jet into little bits of brass!!! So, it was a case of continually squirting WD40 and hoping for the best??? Thanks for the link Gwiz. But, previously I had looked at it and that this particular exhaust will not fit my engine. Grendel is spot-on with his description (small baked bean can) of the exhaust. With a single baffle plate!!!! Bearing his description in mind and looking at my old exhaust I may be able to manipulate it into some sort of working order!!! I've attached a link of what my exhaust looks like. I believe Grendel's are the same??
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I assume your aspera engine has a screw thread for the exhaust as well as the two bolts? If so, then one of the cheapo briggs screw in "pepperpot" exhausts will do just as well.
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Gwiz, Unfortunately, there is no screw thread as part of the exhaust. The two bolts are the only fixing option of the exhaust to the engine. To give you some idea of the dimensions of my exhaust. It is two and a quarter inches diameter and two and a quarter inches in lenght. The exhaust "hole" is five eights of an inch in diameter. The two holes into which the bolts fit are one and three eights apart. Little did I know, but, after reading Grendel's description of his exhausts. Perhaps my current exhaust is the best I'm going to get!!!! Photo of my exhaust attached.
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I think I'll stick to my Alko machine.
Modern, still made, parts plentiful......... ;)
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Looks in a lot better condition than mine were, but yes thats the beast, the front end of mine were pretty much gone, and I had holes in the sides, the new ones look better, dont blow hot gasses sideways, but pretty much are just as noisy.
Grendel