[muntjac]

daft question have you checked the ht lead will carry a current .?. ie gap  if that is what it was before and the nuts were tight i cannot see that changing ,check through all the small items ? a cracked plug lead etc? also go to small engine secrets website , address below on my site its a yank site and they may have a helpfull tip or 2 for ya

[SimonH]

J?ust a public vote of thanks to Gwiz for his help.   In the end it needed a new condenser/points.   Running well now thanks to Gwiz and his helpful advice.

Regards

Simon

[Gwiz]

no problem, simon, i have ben very happy to help, and am well chuffed that " we " have got it going again

[bedspread]

Hi, today I have taken ownership of a B&S engined rotovater, product number 0647327 32, Batch 8046. I have no spark and the engine is exactly as described in this thread. I have removed the flywheel and ther is a gap between the condenser point and the moving point. Unfortunately the pivoted contact does not move as the fibre thing that pushes the moving contact does not move when the engine is turned over. Is the cam that operates it inside the crankcase and do I need to split it to get the contact pusher to work, or is my thinking incorrect?

Thank for your help.

Richard

[WG.]

Hi bedspread & welcome to the forum.

[Gwiz]

Hi, today I have taken ownership of a B&S engined rotovater, product number 0647327 32, Batch 8046. I have no spark and the engine is exactly as described in this thread. I have removed the flywheel and ther is a gap between the condenser point and the moving point. Unfortunately the pivoted contact does not move as the fibre thing that pushes the moving contact does not move when the engine is turned over. Is the cam that operates it inside the crankcase and do I need to split it to get the contact pusher to work, or is my thinking incorrect?

Thank for your help.

Richard

welcome to you.
the cam is a machined part of the crankshaft, it isnt a seperate part.
i would think that the fibre pushrod has just got stuck, it would be a good idear just to replace it.it won't break the bank. while you've got the thing apart, you may as well replace the points just to be on the safe side.
a word of warning about the pushrod is that you will notice that it has a groove cut into it. you MUST put the new one in the same way around. if you don't it acts like an oil pump and WILL fill the points chamber with oil.
if you want to reuse the pushrod it should be 21.1 mm long.
its curious that on your engine it isnt moving. that tends to suggest that your rotovator hasn't been runn for "a little while"
good luck with sorting it out.
have you said hello in the welcome section yet? go on, don't be shy.

[bedspread]

Thanks Gwiz for the prompt reply. I will write in the welcome section.

you are correct in that my friend bought some land and in the shed was the rotovator, not run for 5-10 years I guess, but turns over OK and has compression. It is one without pulley guards and has a handlebar cable to move the idler pulley to disengage engine. I will try and carefully remove the existing pushrod without breaking it off in the hole and replace if necessary.

[bedspread]

GWiz, engine now running very well after your advice, it was a tight points pushrod, thanks.

Next problem is that the belt drives the driven pulley so that the tines revolve even when the idler wheel is not touching the belt. any suggestions anyone?

(I have done an introduction on the intro page)

Thanks,

Richard

[Gwiz]

GWiz, engine now running very well after your advice, it was a tight points pushrod, thanks.

Next problem is that the belt drives the driven pulley so that the tines revolve even when the idler wheel is not touching the belt. any suggestions anyone?

(I have done an introduction on the intro page)

Thanks,

Richard

is the engine able to be moved forwards or backwards to give the belt a bit of slack? some times the mounting bolt holes are actually slots.
belt could be u/s (srunken over time- i know, strange, but can happen)
or the belt could have been replaced with the wrong one in the past.
have we decided what machine this is yet? i dont recognise the numbers you posted earlier.
another thing to look at is the engine drive pulley, if its rusted it will tend to grab the belt and turn it regardless of what the idler wheel is doing, likewise check all other pulleys.
you may well find you have to clean them up with some fine emery cloth so they go shiny, rather than red with rust. if you go down this route, for god's sake be carefull how you do it.emery cloth glued to a thin flat stick is my prefered way.DON'T just hold it against the pulley with your hand. you were born with five fingers to a hand (most are) be a shame to lose a couple at this late stage of the game eh?
you may find that is all you need to do.

[SimonH]

My Landmaster is still going strong, but I am thinking   it this autumn.   Would anyone want the Landmasterfor spares etc?   It is still in working order.


regards


Simon

[peter potter]

Hello SimonH, I am hoping to acquire a Landmaster88 with what sound like the same problems you faced.  Any tips would be welcome.  I have seen the spark coil outside the flywheel which I presume means that there's no points, but wonder whether that is correct.  I have a handbook but the illustration of the engine is so small I cannot really make out the details.
Do you still have your working machine going begging?
Hope to hear back, I am rubbish at these forums and unsure how to respond!
Peter Potter

[Simon Raymond]

Sorry to be picking up on an old thread, but I had the same issues with spark on a recently acquired super 88. I followed all the advice on here and spark is now back! BUT .... Fuel issues. It seems to start and run for a short time, 3/4 seconds then dies! Throttle makes no difference. I am quite mechanically minded and have cleaned carb inside, but no luck. Any ideas?? Oh, and I'm a new member!!

[grendel]

crud in the tank blocking the in tank filter? check flow from the pipe from the tank, check the breather hole in the filler cap, as negative pressure will stop fuel flow. check that the float valve isnt sticking. check the holes and paths through the carb, I generally squirt carb cleaner through all the jets and holes to make sure they are clear.
Grendel