gooseberry mildew ?

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daveylamp

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gooseberry mildew ?
« on: May 03, 2007, 12:10 »
Help!! The best looking gooseberry plants ever. But alas the fruit, that is the size of a large pea has got a white covering on, but is hard to rub off and then it leaves a brown stain on the goosegob. The foliage is clear from any blemishes and from the front of the plot they look realy good. What is wrong and will I have any pies this year.
I'll beat this heavy clay yet. now almost there works well now

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ang

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Gooseberries
« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2007, 19:06 »
We took over an allotment last year that had gooseberries. Last year they did nothing but this year they started producing gooseberries, however, they are covered in a white furry looking mould. I've asked a couple of people on the allotments where we are what to do and they all said it mildew and the gooseberries need more air so the middles should be pruned out. Hope this is of some help

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splodger

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2007, 14:23 »
i thought that powdery mildew attacked shoots,stems, leaves then the fruit.

it can desimate a the crop and certainly stunts new growth.

gooseberries do benefit from heavy pruning, especially older bushes  if the centre is congested.younger bushes need specific pruning - pm me if you wish info on this.

have the shoots become distoted?  if the white turns brown - it could be american gooseberry mildew - you can spray it and cut off affected areas in autumn.

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WG.

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2007, 14:55 »
Quote from: "splodger"
younger bushes need specific pruning - pm me if you wish info on this.
I'd like this information please.  PM me if you wish but posting it will allow others to benefit.  Thanks

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corndolly

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2007, 17:11 »
I'd be tempted to pick off the affected fruit . Cut out the middle branches,to leave a cone shape which  allows air to circulate and ease of picking later .

I have heard that american mildew is more likely in red gooseberries .

It lies in the ground being spread by spores and gooseberries should nt be replanted in the same spot.

 Many years ago we had an attack of american mildew wiped out several bushes ,I think the spores are spread by the wind ,so if mildew is on bushes close to your plot there is a danger of it affecting yours.

Also look out for gooseberry sawfly it'll eat every leaf in days, oh ! last year we had fruit drop, dont know what caused it, put it down to dry weather , one day loads of fruit on th bushes the next loads of fruit on the ground.
Growing organic fruit and vegetables

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splodger

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2007, 17:31 »
ok wg - young gooseberry bush pruning....

prune in autumn or winter but not after feb usually.

the basics: fruit comes on new wood and from spurs of old wood - pruning is essential to keep the centre of bush open to light and air. some varieties are spreading types (and branches tend to droop) others varieties are more upright there are slight differences to how to prune them.

you should prune upright bushes to an outward pointing bud and spreading varieties to an upward or inward bud.

hope you are still with me :?:

for one year old gooseberries you should choose the best shoots (only keep 3 or 4 shoots) and prune them above a bud to approx 1/4 of the length - cut the remaining shoots flush with the stem.

for two year old bushes you should keep approx 6 or 7 of the strongest shoots and prune the strong new growth by about half. weaker shoots could be cut by 2/3 the remaining shoots can be cut down to a single bud from the base.

this way you are encouraging good, strong growth for the next season.
don't be tempted to keep more shoots as you will suffer from poor subsequent growth.

for older more established bushes we are into branch leaders and spurs - gets a little more technical :roll:  

branch leaders can be cut back by half of their new growth.you want to create good spur formation so cut back strong side shoots to a couple of inches of the new growth.weak shoots can be taken out flush with the branch.

if branches are droopy or on the ground cut them back to a good new shoot and cut this back by about half to promote good growth.

keep your old bushes clear in the centre you want the air and light to get in - and it makes picking less prickly too :wink:

summer pruning can also be done on established bushes - by cutting side shoots back. you can also train gooseberries as cordons - maybe we can have that lesson next week - if anyone is interested.

the basic principles always apply to pruning - know your laterals,shoots and spurs. cut above a bud or leaf joint and don't go mad but don't be scared either.

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corndolly

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2007, 17:44 »
Thanks Splodger can we have a lesson in currant pruning too ! oh and apples and pears , better still if you're ever up our way could you come and show us !

Pruning always makes sense on paper but when faced with the actual bush/tree I always feel uneducated !

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WG.

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2007, 17:47 »
Wonderful, many thanks Splodger.

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Bobby T

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2007, 17:58 »
Thanks for that Splodger ,very imformative.Have printed it out and will be taking it to allotment to show gooseberry bushes what they are in for :)
 Hope your health is a lot better.     Bob.

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splodger

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2007, 18:10 »
Quote
Thanks Splodger can we have a lesson in currant pruning too ! oh and apples and pears , better still if you're ever up our way could you come and show us !

Pruning always makes sense on paper but when faced with the actual bush/tree I always feel uneducated !


pruning is one of my specialities - although not officially trained - had very good teacher.

i'd be more than happy to help if you have pruning query or i could recommend some great literature to help you on your way.

remember though that to prune well you have to know what you are cutting. like apples for example you will need to be able to tell the difference between a fruit bud and a growth bud.are they tip bearing or spur forming?

do you want cordons, espalier, bush, tree or fan???

currants are quite simple red,white or black as they vary slightly?

maybe we should  have an "always on the go" pruning thread

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WG.

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2007, 18:16 »
I have an espalier trained apple tree which has gotta be around 100 years old.  It was totally neglected / overgrown when we moved in (21 years ago) and I have got it to where it is fruiting a little.   I'd dearly love to nurture it back into shape (moreso out of respect than a desire to harvest more apples).

I'll go take a picture.  I don't even know the variety.

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ziggywigs

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2007, 22:42 »
That would be nice to see WG.  I have cordons and I find them less daunting to prune than a big tree.

I'd love an esaplier but they do take up a log of room when they get going!

I always take my book with me into the garden when i'm pruning...i know it's daft but you can then see what you're cutting.  Thanks Splodger that's very informative.

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leeky

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #12 on: May 07, 2007, 23:35 »
thanks for the info there. i have several goosberry bushes about 6 foot tall and wide, no idea how old they are but they have given a good crop for the 4 years i have been here.  i think its about time they needed tidying up a bit as i have only ever broke off dead branches here and there in a ham fisted attempt at pruning.

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daveylamp

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2007, 06:51 »
Thanks for the replys. to update.- the bushes are unaffected with this white stuff its only on the goosegobs. they are though a bit crowded and the new growth looks healthy they have been sprayed with anti sawfly stuff this year following last years attack. thanks splodger will follow the pruning instructions you supplied.

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BAK

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gooseberry mildew ?
« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2007, 07:46 »
Notwithstanding the benefits of air circulation some varieties are more prone to mildew than others.

We make our own fungicide with washing soda and soft soap. When sprayed on it simply provides a physical barrier on the fruit and stops the mildew forming. We spray usually at the end of April and then again 3 weeks later.

If you want the recipe then click on garden recipes on our web pages and scroll down to "fungicide made with washing soda and soft soap".


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