Allotment Gardening Advice Help Chat
Poultry and Pets => The Hen House => Topic started by: Diggit on January 15, 2011, 01:11
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Hi,
It's almost time to buy the wood and make my chicken coop. After asking lots of questions on here and reading through 100's of old threads I have taken everything into account. I cannot justify the price of a new coop so I will be making my own. I have the tools and the woodworking ability as long as I keep things relatively simple.
I have sketched the idea on the computer and would like any thoughts on general space, layout and practicality........
It will house 3 hens
Floor space = 120cm x 80cm
Roof height = 70cm (at it's lowest. it slopes towards the back)
Nest box = 30cm x 30cm
Perch length = 80cm (and is easily removable)
Pop hole = 30cm x 36cm
The open space at the back will have 2 doors hinged on each side for egg collecting and cleaning. The doors will be hinged and overlap in the centre to avoid draughts.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/coop1.jpg)
Please feel free to highlight any errors or make suggestions as to how it can improved.
Thanks in advance
Paul
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mine has no floor but a metal tray that pulls out for easy cleaning, not sure if you could make it but really easy to clean
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This looks and sounds a lot like nmh coop. Don't forget gutering along the back or you will get very wet when you clean and collect egge in the rain.
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Hi Paul
Its brilliant that you can make your own. Is this the first time you've kept chickens?
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It looks bang on to me!!
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I found that we needed to nest boxes.. I know they say you only need one for three birds but they lay eggs at different times.And a removeable floor makes life so much easier to clean them every dayi
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Mine is similar but with a larger nestbox (two hens can lay at once if they are in the mood) with lift off roof outside the coop not inside, easier egg collecting.
It may be better to put brackets on the wall to hang the perch from rather than stood on the coop floor, it will get less mucky.
Ps corner posts/legs should go up to the roof on the outside of the coop for a stronger job
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I would recommend lifting both the perch and nest box off the floor by fixing them to the wall using brackets. Make them removable if you can as this will help when cleaning. A tray below the perch will also help.
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Thanks everyone.
All comments have been taken on board.
Trays to aid cleaning,
Fix nest box and perch to the walls but have them raised and removable,
Larger/another nest box,
Alter legs to aid strength,
Guttering.
I shall get drawing again! Thanks for the input ;)
Hi Paul
Its brilliant that you can make your own. Is this the first time you've kept chickens?
Thankyou, yes it is the first time that I have kept chickens. I came very close a couple of years ago but circumstances changed and made it impossible. I am now in a psotion where I have the space and the time (and support from you guys of course! ;) ) Looking back it was probably a good thing as I feel I know so much more now that I have speant so long reading and researching.
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This looks a little more stable.
The nest box is wall mounted with the legs towards the front to give it more support.
The perch is bracketed to the front wall with a leg on the back end.
As I want the whole of the back to open with 2 doors to aid cleaning, I have no wall to fix the back of the perch to.
I will try adding or enlarging the nest box once I have the main coop built. On the drawing it looks like it takes up too much space but I'll see how it looks for real before deciding.
I will fit trays once I have things in place to work out the best way to do it.
Thanks again
Paul
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/coop2.jpg)
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By keeping the frame work on the out side there are less places for those pesky red things to hide. I would also consider auto pop door as it will save you time and peace of mind, more in the winter than summer.
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I think you still have to many legs going down to the coop floor they will get in the way of any poop trays fitted later, the nestbox does not need them as hanging it by liftoff keyhole and screws (or hooks) will be strong enough.
If you put a stout piece of timber across the top at the front you can put a batten down to hang the front edge of the perch from.
Ps the centre noggin between the legs would be better on the inside of the end wall to support the floor, this way it will not trap rainwater .
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Paul, from my experience, I'd make it big enough for a few extra hens. We decided to get 3 but within a few weeks we wanted more. Luckily for us we have a big coop. Chicken keeping is addictive! Good Luck and remember to post pictures of your coop and hens.
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Hi Diggit,
I have very particular ideas about housing so my comments might well be quite different from many others but I will say it comes with many years of experience and I never come across easier to maintain houses than those I use.
You don't mention material and this is very important just as important as the layout and general design. I think it's a good idea to use sheet material, rather than narrow board. Sheets such as plywood and as good a quality as possible, 15mm thick is good. This will help keep down red mite and make cleaning easy. If you do use narrow board make it tongue and groove. Put the structural batons on the outside if possible to ensure your floor is completely flat so you can just sweep out the spent litter with NO dirt traps.
I don't like the single perch. Houses are for roosting in and if you put nestboxes in, for laying. Perches are very important and their profile should be rounded on the edges. A single bar is inadequate. Your entire floor area should be a grill of roosting bars raised 100mm or so above the floor so that the birds walk on the bars which actually simulate tree branches. The droppings fall through the bars onto the flat floor which is covered with litter. The bars should be 50 - 70mm wide with similar gaps so that your birds never walk on a fouled floor. This is the single biggest mistake I see constantly in house design that the birds are allowed to walk and pick in the dirty litter. This is the reason many hobbyist keepers poo pick daily. With proper design this isn't necessary and I generally don't clean out my houses more often than once every 4 to 8 weeks and no poo picking is needed. I sprinkle new litter on the soiled surface and build it up and only renew it when it fills the space below. With 3 birds and the size you are planning you can easily only need to clean every 6 weeks if you wish. A light topping of fresh litter when needed and a sprinkling of a dry disinfecting powder every week is optional.
Personally I wouldn't bother with a dropping tray they become heavy when laden with litter & droppings, especially the size you are planning, and are usually flimsy or heavy and have a tendancy to spill or give you a face full of soiled litter if it's windy. When you have such a nice open access flat floor and you do as I suggest with the perches, sweeping out a fixed floor is easy. Use a heavy polythene sheet (damproof membrane is ideal) to cover the floor and you can easily gather up the litter like a bag and the floor will stay dry & clean. A complete clean and replacing the litter should take no more than 15 mins once every 4 to 6 weeks. That's the target, low maintenance and sanitary conditions too. I certainly wouldn't use a metal sheet as this will be very cold and attract condensation in winter. This would be a definite no no for me.
The roof is probably one of the most important constructional features. It must be watertight and I'd strongly recommend Onduline corrigated bitumen board. Light, long lasting and most importantly maintenance free. Use absolutely no felt which will be red mite heaven. Slope the roof away from the pophole so water is shed away from the entrance. Don't use hinged acess doors. Hinges aren't low maintenance they rust and sag with time and soon your beautiful draft free doors will have sizable gaps. The simple answer is a detachable wooden side panel. Two batons on the inside over laping the bottom to form pegs which fit into two square holes in the edge of the floor and a couple of turn buckle toggles available at any good hardware shop on the top will secure it in place. The roof should overlap the walls by at least 75mm. Make it double pitched, if your skills allow, so it can be steeper than a pent roof with a roosting bar on the apex. Otherwise with a shallow pent roof, they will poop all over it and it doesn't shed rain and snow as well. You won't need extra ventillation with a corrigated roof.
The pophole should be a vertical rise and fall type don't, whatever you do, have a hinged door or worse a side sliding door. There's no need for the opening to be bigger than absolutely necessary and an opening of 250mm wide by 300mm high is fine for most hybrid layers. A vertically sliding door is easy to automate won't get clogged with droppings and won't stick if you make the slide properly. Why fit it centrally? Why not to one side away from the nest boxes to cut down drafts.
I'd also have two or three nestboxes the size of house would easily house 8 hens eventually so why not plan in a bit of expansion. 330 mm square is ample size but don't have it so they can roost on top of them.
Having all the internals lift out is a good idea. The key thing to bare in mind is low maintenance, flat floors, lift off sides, no dirt traps, removable fittings and keep the hens away from their droppings and no food or water in the house. Use a covered entrance run to house the food & water with a duck board slatted floor mat on woodchip in front of the pophole to keep the entrance dry and clean so no mud gets trailed in and the eggs stay clean as they don't walk in their droppings either and you will have one excellent house.
Best of luck
HF
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Thats a great detailed reply as always HF. Thank you. I will consider everything once it comes to making sawdust! I particularly like the idea of the floor covered with perch space rather than have them being able to rest in their own muck. My plan was always to use WBP sheet ply for the walls with the legs/frame on the outside to leave internal edges smooth and easily cleanable. For the roof I was planning on using feather edge board but I will have a look for corrugated material as you suggest.
Thanks to everyone for the input. I will most certainly take lots of pictures when I build the coop and keep you all posted.
Thanks again
Paul ;)
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Hi Diggit,
I have very particular ideas about housing so my comments might well be quite different from many others but I will say it comes with many years of experience and I never come across easier to maintain houses than those I use.
You don't mention material and this is very important just as important as the layout and general design. I think it's a good idea to use sheet material rather than board such as plywood and as good a quality as possible 15mm thick is good.
HF
Can I ask what you mean by 'sheet material' please?
Laraine
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Basically wood that come in "sheets" like plywood for example
rather than planks that are put together like tongue and groove for example, these would be pieced together to make a wall, leaving lots of room in joins for things like red mite to hide and breed.
Sheet material walls - (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_LsAiy6pfFAc/SdUE-SnhwZI/AAAAAAAAA7U/6lxb29nrSfA/s400/chicken-coop.jpg)
Tongue and groove walls - (http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:NB3Xd4a8r_rLLM:http://thereliableinfo.com/blog/chicken-coop.jpg&t=1)
Hope this helps
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You`d never get the mites out of those urls. :D
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Got it, :) our local woodyard sells shuttering ply and OSB sheeting, which is reasonably cheap.
Thank you for the quick reply
Laine
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I like to clean my coops most days,it stops the build up of amonia and you get to get in with the birds.Also i have seen pictures of roosting bars piled with crusted faeces unless they are scraped daily.This to me is the same as walking in the stuff on the floor.If you only have a few hens its no hardship to poo pick,2 minutes and your done
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For the roof I was planning on using feather edge board but I will have a look for corrugated material as you suggest.
I doubt that feather edge board will be water tight for a pent roof. Feather board is for horizontal vertical surfaces where water can't run up through the edges. Your pent roof will be quite shallow and featherboard won't shed driving rain. Pent roofs are almost always sheet material or felt covered. A double pitched roof could use shiplap or t&g and maybe feather board if it was well overlapped.
Make sure you use treated wood and then give it a coat of preservative, the best you can afford, on the outside surfaces only as you want the inside to breathe. The top grade Cuprinol lasts well.
HF
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Lots to think about. Thanks again.
I had a go at HF's idea with the grid system perches. I could easily make it so they are all individually moveable yet stable when in place. This picture was more for drawing practice than anything else as I liked the thought of it. I also moved the pop hole to one side and the nest box outside. This would make egg collecting easier and also make it so I can close off at night if any hens get too comfy in there 8)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/coop3.jpg)
I'll stop thinking so much for now until I have the wood to start but I've got lots of ideas to go on so thanks everybody for the input. It's much appreciated by someone just starting out to have input from those with more experience. ;)
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I like to clean my coops most days,it stops the build up of amonia and you get to get in with the birds.Also i have seen pictures of roosting bars piled with crusted faeces unless they are scraped daily.This to me is the same as walking in the stuff on the floor.If you only have a few hens its no hardship to poo pick,2 minutes and your done
If you "paint" the perches with a slurry made from a dilute disinfectant and Diatom. Add powder to the liquid and mix to a batter like consistancy. Use disinfectant like Vanodine V18 which is iodine based and stays active even on dirty surfaces. It dies to a caked powdery surface which is very drying and to which droppings don't stick, so is easy to scrape clean. Paint into corners too so that it deters Red Mite which can't colonise in such dry conditions. If you are careful and scrape you only need to apply it every 3 months or so depending on wear.
It's quite effective and helps solve the RM problem. Also washing perches in winter it's difficult to get them dry before you re admit the chx. If you use the paint idea and scrape in winter there's no problem.
It's the scratting in and picking through dirty litter you want to try and avoid. Poo picking is just cosmetic to some extent. Though it does help, the litter still becomes contaminated and they do pick in it and eat it.
As a litter material softwood shavings are absorbant and have a well established natural antiseptic quality so help to reduce bacteria. I don't think Hemcore which I sometimes use has this benefit as it's mostly fibrous celulite and pretty sterile and inert. People none the less like the citrus aroma it's impregnated with and ease of use.
HF
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Hi diggit,
The design is certainly looking much better now. The external nestbox is a good idea and will help with the internal design as well as being less work for egg collection.
Why not have the pophole lower lip align with the top of the floor bars so they can be regularly arranged without the gap?
HF
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Brilliantly detailled reply from HF, with reasons for all the recommendations. Have you onsidered a sideline of coops for sale which meet all your criteria? They'd be worth a bob or two (that gives away my age!).
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Simples! :wacko:
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/coop4.jpg)
That's better! ;)
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Just a thought from a non carpentry person but my experience taught me never ever have a house that is made of any kind of chip board. Years ago I was given an old hen house that had a floor made of the course chip board like in the above 'shed' picture. Awful stuff. You cannot wash or scrub at all and soon becomes a red mite paradise.
OL
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Just a thought from a non carpentry person but my experience taught me never ever have a house that is made of any kind of chip board. Years ago I was given an old hen house that had a floor made of the course chip board like in the above 'shed' picture. Awful stuff. You cannot wash or scrub at all and soon becomes a red mite paradise.
OL
I am a carpentry person and i agree. :) WBP plywood is better.
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Brilliantly detailled reply from HF, with reasons for all the recommendations. Have you onsidered a sideline of coops for sale which meet all your criteria? They'd be worth a bob or two (that gives away my age!).
Funny you should mention that but in fact I'm a retired Engineer who worked in product design in the computer industry for several major international companies for 40 years and I've also done a lot of consulting. I've been keeping chickens for over 10 years, as well as being around them as a boy since my grandparents were farmers and I have several uncles who were farmers and kept chickens.
It has occured to me to start a business as a sort of hobby but really there's not a lot of money in it as I'd be competing against the cheap flat pack Indonesian/ Chinese imports ebay boys. Although I could easily design a much superior product I doubt I could compete on price without compromising a lot on quality. If I had a low cost manufacturer who could machine tool a design I might be in business! :)
However there are some good UK producers who make excellent product today that are well designed for chicken keeping. For example Forsham's but their prices are 3 to 4 times the flat pack boys who sell imports on ebay. The market is first time backyard hobbyists who haven't the experience to know what's required and will buy on price and what looks good to their eyes. The marketeers have figured out that it's not chickens but people who buy chicken houses :wub:
HF
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HF I think your housing is great, I've been looking for ideas to build a new house and this is the first that has given me renewed hope of building the perfect henhouse, thank you.
Any more pics would be a great help.
Cheers
:)
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Spud I see on another post you need yours movable and the run fox proof - you could build one like HF's and use electric fencing or if you build weld mesh panels and tie these together with several tie wraps but don't forget to put a wire skirt facing outwards to prevent foxes digging under. These panels like the electric fencing can be moved to fresh ground whenever you need to :D
Use the thickest weldmesh you can get and have the holes about 1/2" by 1" size (Hills of Devon sell by the roll and will deliver very quickly :)
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tnx JF I have the room to free range them, but way too many foxes for me to rest easy, so I'll start by buiding a largish moveable type house/run combo.
I'm wanting to start a forest garden in the same area so looking for helpful ideas there too.
tnx again
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I got most of the wood today so I can start making saw dust this weekend! :) Well, not much saw dust hopefully, I used the design drawing to work out the measurements and had two sheets cut to size at the suppliers ;)
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I got most of the wood today so I can start making saw dust this weekend! :) Well, not much saw dust hopefully, I used the design drawing to work out the measurements and had two sheets cut to size at the suppliers ;)
I've great hopes for your design Diggit so best of luck and lets see some photos of it in progress and when finished.
HF
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Thanks HF. I shall take pictures as you say ;)
Just one last question if I may? Looking at corrugated sheet in B&Q the other day, I see that the standard width is 900mm. As my coop is to be 1200mm wide and 800mm deep I'm now thinking now of slanting the roof from side-to-side rather than the standard front-to-back, so to my question............. Should the nest box be in the shallow end or the high end? I dont suppose it matters too much as the slant isn't enough to make much difference but I thought I would invite ideas as I have had some greats tips before during this thread. 8)
Thanks
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II would have the nest bock at the "high" end, otherwise if you collect eggs in the rain you are going to get wet!
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Good point ;)
It would also save the nest box roof from a constant running/dripping of water when its raining. ;)
Thanks :D
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I'm not sure what B& Q sell but if it's like my local Jewsons it's fairly thin corrigated bitumen board. If you can find it Onduline (which is the manufacturer) corrigated board is much stiffer and is the prefered board to be used on stables and animal housing. If there's a local stable builder you might even be able to scrounge an off cut for next to nothing. It's worth shopping around for to find rather than the thin bendy bitument board.
If you do use this make sure it's supported with "beams" underneath as it tends to sag over time otherwise. When fixing drill through the highs and obviously not the valleys which will leak.
It's not a problem to overlap the corigations you only need to do one overlap for it to be water proof so I wouldn't worry just overlap it.
HF
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another name for it is coroline :)
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Onduline on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/genuine-ONDULINE-Roof-Sheets---repair-stable-roofing_W0QQitemZ180584395863QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=204576755171&rvr_id=204576755171&cguid=55d2871812d0a0aa1537cc87ff1d166b
HF
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Thanks guys, I'll have a search around ;) I'll go back to B&Q too and have a closer look at what they had. I'm sure the stuff I saw was quite thick but then I've not seen anything else so I have nothing to compare it to in my mind.
I have an idea now though of things to look for so thanks ;)
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looking forward to seeing the photos Diggit :)
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I didn't get as much time as I'd hoped in the garage today but I have made a good start. I decided to build the nest box first to make it easier to work out the side panel of the coop later on, and that led to modification number one before I'd even started! ::) I went with 2 nest boxes instead of one......... just incase ;) They say these chickens are addictive you know! :D
I laid everything out to make sure I had all I need...
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/28012011044.jpg)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/28012011042.jpg)
The larger pieces I have bought and had cut for this project, but most of the other stuff is what I have accumulated over time as woodwork is a hobby of mine. This was when I realised that the pieces I'd found for the nest box were the perfect size for 2.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/29012011047.jpg)
I cut a slot for a piece of the removable door to locate into. It didn't quite work out as planned and I found I had a gap along the bottom which would have let a draft through ::) I added the thin strip along the front to cover this. Once I'd fitted that, I was worried about rain getting in behind it so I added some bead along the door to keep things dry and draft-free.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/29012011052.jpg)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/29012011049.jpg)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/29012011050.jpg)
Not as planned but worked out well in the end. The whole piece is removable for cleaning and egg collecting. The swivel catches are only temporary to make sure it worked well and went on and off easily which thankfully it did. It's a shame about the strip along the bottom as the idea was to leave it clear for easy cleaning but it'll be fine for the nest boxes, I'll try something different for the coop door.
Tomorrow's job will be the main coop. Although it's a lot bigger it should be simpler than the nest boxes (fingers crossed!) ::)
Looking good so far 8)
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this is a great thread, i'm looking to make a coop for myself so I will be checking in here to see your progress and any hurdles you find along the way.
Nice work so far though :)
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Thanks Uba. I hope it can help in some way. I'm enjoying it so far ;)
I had a good few hours today. After playing around with the nest box for so long yesterday I really wanted to get the main coop together.
I started with the 2 side pieces. Firstly cutting the angles for the roof.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/30012011055.jpg)
Then offering the nest box up to mark out the holes.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/30012011053.jpg)
Then finally mounting it.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/30012011058.jpg)
The view from inside the coop...
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/30012011056.jpg)
Then the opposite side which was pretty simple in comparison..
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/30012011059.jpg)
And joined the 2 together with the floor piece...
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/30012011061.jpg)
I offered up the front a back panels to check the fit all thankfully all is well. Next stage is to cut the pop hole and work out the fitting of the removable back panel. I want to leave the front panel until the very end so I can have easy access to the back panel from both sides for marking holes/slots etc.
Staining it should be fun, I'm running out of room. I think I need a good tidy-up.....
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/30012011064.jpg)
Whilst I had all of the panels in place I laid in some off-cut that are the same as the wood that I'll be using for the perches. I need to work out the best way to do the grid system so that it's removable and cleanable, yet still solid when in position and the hens skipping along it ???
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/30012011063.jpg)
I'm really enjoying this project. I don't want to carry now until I've thought through the back door properly. After messing around and having to compromise with the nest box door I want to learn from that and get it right first time. ::) :D
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I'd lift the roosting bars off the floor by at least 75mm and probably you just need to fit them to cross batons to do this. ie the batons will lift them up.
Re staining it's best to just treat the outside with a waterproof stain and allow the inside to breathe that way you won't trap moisture in the laminations.
Does the back wall of the nestboxes lift off. If so that will make them easy to clean. Good idea.
When you fit the lift off wall you need to make it so that water running down the wall can't run onto the floor pan. The wall needs to overlap the floor either the main wall sheet or by having an overhanging baton lip so water is shed away from the floor pan. Locate the wall with two baton tenons into two rectangular holes in the floor inboard of the edge and support frame. I assume there's a baton running under the edge of the floor to form a support.
It's looking very good Diggit you are certainly doing a good job.
HF
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Thanks for the comments again HF. Much appreciated.
The nest box itself is fixed solid to the coop, but the whole of the back wall (the bit you can see with the silver handle attached) is removable for cleaning/egg collecting. I've got some large dowel that I'm thinking I could use for "pegs" on the bottom of the removable door. I tried the rectangular type on the nest box but it didn't work out. I'll see how it looks when I offer things up and decide which way to go.
Sounds like a simple enough idea with the perches, I left cutting the pop hole until I'd decided so I could raise them on cross batons no problem.
Thanks again, ;)
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Thanks for the comments again HF. Much appreciated.
The nest box itself is fixed solid to the coop, but the whole of the back wall (the bit you can see with the silver handle attached) is removable for cleaning/egg collecting. I've got some large dowel that I'm thinking I could use for "pegs" on the bottom of the removable door. I tried the rectangular type on the nest box but it didn't work out. I'll see how it looks when I offer things up and decide which way to go.
Sounds like a simple enough idea with the perches, I left cutting the pop hole until I'd decided so I could raise them on cross batons no problem.
Thanks again, ;)
I'm trying to find some photos which show how Forshams hang the walls on the Lenham and these are the best I can find.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/lenhamsidepanelsremoved.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m491/hillfooter/Chicken%20Chat%20posts/Cleaning4.jpg)
The first shows the removable nestbox and you will notice two batons below the nestbox openings which form tenons (pegs) which locate in two mortise holes in the floor. Mortice holes are more clearly shown on the second photo between the floor pan sheet and the floor structural support rail. The rear wall is leaning against the house on the RHS of the photo and you can just make out the tenons which locate in the holes.
Good idea with the nestbox rear but make it a fox proof fastening.
HF
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Thats what I did with the nest box...
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/29012011052.jpg)
You can see the slots here. I just couldn't get it accurate enough which is why I ended up with panel across it to stop any draught getting through. If the peg idea I have with the dowel works out then it'll be easier to make accurate as I can drill the holes and position the pegs the door when in position.
Thanks for the pics ;) That is a very well made coop 8)
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make sure the holes aren't blind then as they will fill up with litter and the dowels won't engage.
HF
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Oh what a lovely bit of carpentry! Will you build me a house next, please?
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I dont think I'd fit a house in my garage lol
All the woodwork is no finished, I just need to cut the pop-hole and decide on catches and fit them. I'll stain it first though. I'll take some pics next time I go into the garage. We've picked a weekend to get the chooks so I now have a deadline of March the 6th to have the coop and run ready for the new girls!
Not long now! :D
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The last couple of weeks have been a little hectic so not as much time spent on the coop as I'd hoped but I caught up this weekend with a good few hours in the garage. ::)
I got the removable back panel finished and I'm quite happy as it's strong and works really well. Just a few bid dowel pins that locate into holes in the base. The holes go straight through so that nothing can get lodged inside.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/12022011083.jpg)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/12022011084.jpg)
Then I cut the pop hole in the front. I've got the parts to fit an auto-open/closer. I'll take the time to lay this out properly later on as that is a job in itself.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/12022011086.jpg)
Then cut the roof sheets to size.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/12022011087.jpg)
And fitted roof beams for support. There will be an extra beam going from side to side too.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/12022011085.jpg)
Tonight I managed to get the first coat of stain on so it's really coming to life now. As soon as I get a dry day I will take it out of the garage for the second coat. The first coat looks a little patchy. The light in the garage isn't the best so it's difficult to do inside.
The only things left to fit (apart from the pop hole mechanism) are the catches for the back panel and nest box side. I can't find the right ones in the places I've looked so far. I think I need to broaden my search!
Should all be in place next weekend for me to start on the run. 8) We have the weekend of the 5th and 6th of March set aside for picking up the hens. :lol:
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Hi diggit, it looks like it's coming on really well... one question though...
If the back panel is removable, how are the supporting roof beams attached?
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Thanks Casey,
There is a strip of around 100mm high that runs along the top. This helps to tie the 2 side walls together and gives me a platform for the catches/fixings. It also allows the panel to come away without clashing with the roof that slopes down and overhangs the back edge. You can just see it in the top left of the second picture in the previous post.
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Hi Diggit,
Looking good. Was it a turn button like this you were after. Ant decent iron mongers or screwfix will have them.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/21220/Ironmongery/Bolts-Catches/Latches/Turn-Button-Solid-Brass-38mm-Pack-of-10
Now you are sure it won't blow over in a wind or a fox won't be able to tip it up aren't you? Also what auto opener are you going to use?
HF
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Hi HF,
I was looking for something more light a catch than just a swivel but I suppose those in the link will be fine will they? I had only seen woodens ones and worried they wouldn't be strong enough.
It's very sturdy and weighty. Once in position I might hammer some steaks into the ground and screw to the outer legs just incase, shouldn't need to but it can only make it stronger.
For the opener I have a modified car wiper motor with a bicycle gear cog welded to the shaft. The theory works well on the bench but I want to play with it more before bolting it to the coop. I will show it in detail once I have it finished. Its using a lot of bits that I already have so it wont cost me much. Good for someone as frugal as me. lol
If it doesn't work or looks weak though I will go for an actuator to make sure it's secure. This is why I'm leaving till the last job. ;)
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Yes you just screw two of the turn buttons to the fixed top rail of the house and turn them 90deg to retain the wall. That's all I have on my house.
A wiper motor might not be so frugal with the power if you are battery powering. Might be a bit too torquey as well. Did you see my post on using an aerial motor. This has a clutch and limit switches built in, just needs an up down signal.
http://chat.allotment-garden.org/index.php?topic=65865.msg756544#msg756544
HF
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Diggit, one thought, if you are putting your coop onto grass, you could put the back legs into Metaposts which have been hammered into the ground. As they are metal they won't rot, and are movable (with a little bit of effort!)
I really need to make a start of building my little coops, but the price of decent exterior ply is absolutely scandalous, so I must wait until payday :(
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:ohmy: Oh my goodness what a wonderful coop!
^ That's a pic of me being very impressed.
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Been following the progress of the build and it is looking very good indeed, however may I make a suggestion if its not too late, I may of missed it but if not, I would suggest a layer of weld mesh underneath the onduline to help prevent any vermin entering the coop from above.
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:ohmy: Oh my goodness what a wonderful coop!
^ That's a pic of me being very impressed.
Oh!.....................so you really don't look like your avatar at all then? :unsure:
PS Aidy's idea with the mesh is certainly worth doing if not too late.
HF
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The mesh idea is a good one. thanks. I'll see what I can find this weekend as I want it out of the garage so the roof needs to be on pretty soon.
I put the roof sheets on for a couple of pics to see how the final look was. The colour was my wife's choice! ::) :tongue2:
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/17022011092.jpg)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/17022011091.jpg)
May need another coat yet as it still looks patchy but I'll wait and see how it dries first!
I've only painted the edges and left the insides to give the wood chance to breath as suggested.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/17022011093.jpg)
Stopping on the way home from work tomorrow to get the catches and the handles for the main back panel. Should be outside this weekend. You may notice some of the underside not yet painted. I haven't got room to work underneath so my mate is coming on Saturady to help me to flip it over for a coat on the underside. Hopefully be in position in the garden on Sunday so I can start to work out the run 8)
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looking good :)
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Hi Paul,
Have you sealed the internal joints as a further measure against RM. I must say you've made a lovely job of it. Lot's of access should make cleaning a doddle.
HF
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Thanks HF and Joy,
I will be running a small bead around all the internal edges. As I need to flip it over to paint the underside I was Leaving it until the job, I'll go over all the internal screw heads too as they are sunken into the wood slightly!
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Looking good mate. Dare I ask one little question please...
The roost bars, they are going to go higher than the nest boxes aren't they, only (andHF prob best to advise) I read that its best to make sure the nest boxes are lower than the roost bars as the chooks look roost at the highest point, so if the nest boxes are higher than the bars they tend to want to roost in the boxes.
Really hope my fears are put aside.
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Thanks for the tip. I wasn't aware of that Aidy. I'll have a search around and see what others say. It's not a problem to change as I haven't cut the roost bars yet. As it is now, it's designed so the the entrance is level with the top of the bars and they step down slightly into the box. I could steadily raise the height of the bars so that they are higher at that end if required.
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Or you could block off the nestboxes at night ;)
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Looking good mate. Dare I ask one little question please...
The roost bars, they are going to go higher than the nest boxes aren't they, only (andHF prob best to advise) I read that its best to make sure the nest boxes are lower than the roost bars as the chooks look roost at the highest point, so if the nest boxes are higher than the bars they tend to want to roost in the boxes.
Really hope my fears are put aside.
For a small house it's not not really practical to arrange the roosts to be significantly above the nestboxes and having the roosts a few 10's of cms above the nestbox entrance wouldn't have a lot of effect. I've had houses where the roosts were slighly above the nestboxes and they still roosted in the nestboxes. I think they find the warmth and security of a small enclosed space to their liking. My current houses have rising roosts but that does'nt seem to encourage them to always use the roosts. It's very house and temperature dependant just where they feel comfortable roosting.
Traditionally in commercial laying sheds the roosts are placed high with dropping trays beneath them and because hens naturally would lay on the ground so the chicks can get in and out, nestboxes are placed low down. Hens don't fetch food for their chicks like wild birds but take them out foraging for food which when they find a tasty beetle they will throw to the chicks. Chicks are pretty independant and mobile from shortly after hatch unlike wild birds chicks.
If you can arrange that the roosts rise up slightly from the entrance that's not a bad arrangement but I wouldn't spoil the design to acheive it. See the design of the Lenham roosts to see the idea.
By the way laying houses aren't intended to be used for hatching in and to do this you need to set up a separate house for a broody to hatch and brood in. These are usually at ground level with open fronts with a grill which allow the chx through but restrains the broody.
HF
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Hi diggit
Can you tell me what program you used to produce the drawings??
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Hi lousie, you can download the basic program of google Sketch Up for free
And you can draw 3D projects quite easily... like this
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y108/oconnka4/Chickens/Chook%202011/Coopdesign1.jpg)
As I have a serious aversion to Photoshop, and unable to do even the simplest of things in there, google is nice to use by comparison. A little fiddly for me, but but I suspect if you are in anyway CAD minded, easy to use!
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Hi Louise. The programme is Google Sketch Up. Its a great little programme for things like this and its free to download too and there are lots of tutorials around the internet to help you get to grips with it ;)
Another couple of hours this morning.
Bottoms up!
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/19022011097.jpg)
First coat on
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/19022011098.jpg)
Then I knocked up a quick gate whilst the first coat dried. It's very basic as it's only temporary. I want to keep the dogs away from the area where the chickens will be. This will help me to keep the area clean from doggy stuff and give them chance to settle before I introduce them.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/19022011099.jpg)
Then after a second coat I was able to flip it back to the right way up and fit the handles and catches.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/19022011096.jpg)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/19022011095.jpg)
I'll have a pic of it out in the garden tomorrow! 8)
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Thanks Diggit, I'll give it a look. :)
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Now in position in the garden!
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/26022011104.jpg)
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w131/pjl83/26022011106.jpg)
Next job will be the run ::) :)
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Hi paul,
Very nice, blends in well. You didn't photograph the roosts though which I'd love to see.
Did you keep a tally on your costs?
Well done all you need once the run in is situ is some birds.
HF
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Thanks HF.
The roosts are very nearly complete. I am just waiting on a length of 6x2 and I can finish them. Going back a few posts to the discussion about the nest boxes ideally being lower than perches I altered by plans slightly. I used up all off my 3x2 scraps and 4x2 scraps so I needed more wood anyway. Three 6" high roosts will be nearest to the nest boxes, then a few 4x2's and the 3x2's at the pop hole end. This will give a gradually raise from the entrance to the nest boxes. I will take a couple of pics once it's complete.
Lots of the wood I used was stuff I had gathered over time so it would be difficult to cost. The only bits I actually bought were the ply (2 sheets but have loads left over), the roofing material and the catches. Next time I'm in B&Q I will price things up to work out a general idea of cost! ;)
Thanks again
Paul
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What a superb job you have done there! In my next life I promise to be good at DIY, because I am absolutely useless at it :lol: :lol:
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Great job! It's also really helpful that you have documented the build, including the decisions you made at each stage and why. I can see this thread being a very useful reference for other people, especially once you cost the project.
Nice work all round. :)
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Great thread.javascript:replaceText(' :D', document.forms.postmodify.message); Just about finished a design when I came across it.javascript:replaceText(' >:(', document.forms.postmodify.message);
Superb bit of workmanship.
A few questions :-
Is OSB board a no-no?
Does the corrugated roof not make it drafty?
Are the egg boxes best placed at the opposite end from the poop hole?
Could silicon be used to seal the edges and make it more RM resistant or will the hens strip it off. Don't want to think what injested silicon would do to them. Bouncy eggs?
Could there be a problem with rain getting into the nest boxes at the side wall to onduline junction?
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Superb bit of workmanship.
A few questions :-
Is OSB board a no-no? DEFINITELY
Does the corrugated roof not make it drafty? Ventillation is required and ideally it's best to provide it above head height. It would be preferable to baffle it ideally but with corrigated board that's difficult. A ribbon or material fringe hung over the edges would do the job if it proved too draughty. On balance I suspect it's OK
Are the egg boxes best placed at the opposite end from the poop hole? :lol: :lol:Love the idea that you should place egg boxes at the opposite end to the poop hole. However I think you mean NEST boxes and Pop hole. It's not a requirement but it makes for less disturbance to laying hens and cuts down draughts.
Could silicon be used to seal the edges and make it more RM resistant or will the hens strip it off.exactly they'd strip it off. i once used mastic sealer on a roof repair and they just picked it out Don't want to think what injested silicon would do to them. Bouncy eggs?
Could there be a problem with rain getting into the nest boxes at the side wall to onduline junction?Provided the overhand is enough it should be ok but a sofit end board of two wood boards fixed at right angles would probably solve the draught bafling and rain ingress issue if one existed. My stables have such an arrangement.
HF
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Thanks HF.
Another question.
How many large hens eg sussex, do people think would this accommodate?
Great woodwork Diggit. I think mine will have more battens outside for support and cover the joins.
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Thanks HF.
Another question.
How many large hens eg sussex, do people think would this accommodate?
Great woodwork Diggit. I think mine will have more battens outside for support and cover the joins.
I'd say about 8 large fowl like Light Sussex per square metre in the house. Obviously the aspect ratio is important as well as the area so they can have around 20 - 25cms of roost space each. I don't know the exact size of Diggits house.
The run area is usually the most restricting and 2 tp 3 square metres each is usually the minimum unless you can let them free range part of the day.
HF
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Thanks for the compliments binghamd.
The House is around 1200mm wide (cut from a sheet of 8x4 WBP ply) and 800mm wide. The highest point is also 800mm sloping to 700mm.
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Diggit ; where you intend putting beading internally to seal the joints, would it be worthwhile to paint them and the joints with polyurethane varnish and reduce further sites for RM
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Fantastic looking coop, it has given me lots of food for thought!
I was wondering how you managed to get snap shots of your design? I have drawn up a plan on google sketch up and wanted to get some pictures to put on here so i can get some feed back before we start the build!
Many thanks
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Great coop! We are thinking of making our own, but are a bit daunted of the scale of it all, not being natural carpenters!
Thanks for the info and photos very helpful to a novice/beginner like me!
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Oh no, have read all of this post and argggggggggggggghhh its like not finding the last piece of the jigsaw, or finding your hard drive has not recorded the last 5 minutes of a movie, or one of those movies you watch because you want to know what happens at the end and then it ends not giving you any idea of what really happens and you have to draw your own conclusions. :wacko:
Rant over. :mad: Diggit could you please come back and finish what you started. Pictures of your new arrivals are mandatory.
Mind wanders ..................
"Grocer Jack grocer Jack get off your back
Go into town don't let them down
Oh no no
Grocer Jack grocer Jack get off your back
Go into town don't let them down
Oh no no
The people that live in the town
Don't understand
He's never been known to miss his round
Its 10 o'clock the housewife's yell
When Jack turns up we'll give him hell
Husbands moan at breakfast tables
No milk no eggs no marmalade labels
Mothers send the children out to Jacks house
To scream and shout
Grocer Jack grocer Jack get off your back
Come into town don't let us down
Oh no no"
Thinks ................................ hope that you are well and nothing untoward has stopped your posting. Wishing you well just in case. :wub:
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:lol: :lol:
I totally agree, ANHBUC! I want to know what the chickens thought of all Diggit's hard work.
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you see hes prob got his chickens now and if hes anything like me is spending far too much time out in the garden watching them and all the funny little goings on in hen world ,planning bigger and better builds for them adding more hens ....etc.....and forgot all about eveything else,i no its not just me
but i want to see it too
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Wow. I can't believe this was 4 years ago!
The saddest part is, I never had hens in the end!!!! :(
A friend of a friend had the coop to extend his flock and apparently it went down very well. (Long story, mainly involving a divorce and a house move!!)
Looking at this again now as I start to work on my new garden now that I've settled. I also have a 1 year old son that would love to have some pets. That's my excuse for wanting some anyway! 8)