which tomato

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SPUDMIESTER

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which tomato
« on: February 05, 2012, 19:20 »
 :) Gone for Gardeners Delight and Golden Sunrise this ye :unsure:ar for the greenhouse - what do you all recomend for growing outside on the lottie thats light resistant and doesn't suffer from blossom end rot??

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Yorkie

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2012, 19:48 »
Blossom end rot is more to do with watering problems than variety resistance, I think - but perhaps others will have more details.
I try to take one day at a time, but sometimes several days all attack me at once...

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compostqueen

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2012, 19:51 »
I did really well with Red Fig outdoors. It saw off blight too.  That was the year before last. I didn't get blight on my outdoor toms last year thank goodness. BER is a watering problem I believe caused by infrequent watering (or something of that sort) 

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DD.

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2012, 20:23 »
Blossom end rot is caused by a shortage of calcium in the fruit.

The usual cause is irregular watering. That's where to look, rather than a variety.
Did it really tell you to do THAT on the packet?

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gobs

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2012, 21:15 »
Did you mean light resistant? Because blight resistant tomato does not exist in my experience.

Blossom end rot, as said above, is no issue.
"Words... I know exactly what words I'm wanting to say, but somehow or other they is always getting squiff-squiddled around." R Dahl

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Yorkie

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2012, 21:19 »
I believe Ferline is promoted as blight resistant but no idea what it tastes like.  As gobs says, none of these varieties will be blight-proof.

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DD.

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2012, 21:32 »
I've said in another thread a while ago that I grew Ferline a few years ago. They were decimated by blight, I can picture them now.  :(  Had days & days of solid rain.

They are also prone to cracking at the blossom end, as they grow quite large, but it's mostly looks and not flavour that affects.

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Yorkie

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2012, 22:37 »
Apart from that, you'd recommend Ferline, then (not) ?  ;) :lol:

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DD.

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2012, 22:42 »
The choice is up to the reader based on what has been posted by personal experiences!

The common theme, though,  is that there is no blight proof tomato and I'll deal with blight in my own way.  :lol:

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Ivor Backache

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2012, 19:00 »
I have spent some time on the internet regarding tomatoes and was quite surprised to find them growing in Greenland and Siberia. There they have developed plants that grow very quickly.
This year I am trying 'Stupice' and 'Sub Artic Plenty' which should bear fruit in 60days, from transplanting.
Otherwise I am staying with 'Tamina', 'Harbinger' and 'Alicante'

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gobs

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2012, 22:16 »
I have spent some time on the internet regarding tomatoes and was quite surprised to find them growing in Greenland and Siberia. There they have developed plants that grow very quickly.
This year I am trying 'Stupice' and 'Sub Artic Plenty' which should bear fruit in 60days, from transplanting.
Otherwise I am staying with 'Tamina', 'Harbinger' and 'Alicante'

Yes, also on space stations. We have tried some of these in the past and were not too impressed. The quest is still on.

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DD.

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #11 on: February 07, 2012, 22:23 »
I have spent some time on the internet regarding tomatoes and was quite surprised to find them growing in Greenland and Siberia. There they have developed plants that grow very quickly.
This year I am trying 'Stupice' and 'Sub Artic Plenty' which should bear fruit in 60days, from transplanting.
Otherwise I am staying with 'Tamina', 'Harbinger' and 'Alicante'

The question was - are they blight resistant, and don't suffer from blossom end rot", not "what are you growing".

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BabbyAnn

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #12 on: February 08, 2012, 05:21 »
I have spent some time on the internet regarding tomatoes and was quite surprised to find them growing in Greenland and Siberia. There they have developed plants that grow very quickly.
This year I am trying 'Stupice' and 'Sub Artic Plenty' which should bear fruit in 60days, from transplanting.
Otherwise I am staying with 'Tamina', 'Harbinger' and 'Alicante'

The question was - are they blight resistant, and don't suffer from blossom end rot", not "what are you growing".

They may not be blight resistant, but short season varieties may be an option to harvest before the onset of late blight (depends on the weather of course if early summer is wet then ...)

Koralik cherry is supposedly hardy and "late blight resistant",  Fantasio F1 (or Phantasia - depends on where you buy the seeds) as blight tolerant, with Latah, Glacier and Alaskan Fancy as 3 other "short" season tomato varieties - I've never grown any of them so can only go off the supplier blurb.  I have grown Ferline F1 and Legend which are often the 2 main varieties sold as blight resistant - I would agree that they are not blight proof but I would say that when compared to other tomato varieties that succumbed, they managed to keep going a good week or more longer which was just enough time to realise all was not well and get the fruits picked and ripened indoors.  The Ferline was more resistant than Legend.  Taste wise I found both were fine for making passata which is reduced down and concentrated (I don't like raw tomatoes so can't comment)

Blossom end rot - already mentioned about the calcium deficiency and irregular watering. 

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SPUDMIESTER

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2012, 16:12 »
DD

How do rectify calcium defiiency? Is that to do with liming the soil? And how do you combat blight ?

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mumofstig

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Re: which tomato
« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2012, 16:20 »
RHS has this to say about calcium deficiency

Quote
It is very rare for soils, growing bags or potting media to actually lack calcium. There is almost always plenty in the soil and indeed within the plant. However for calcium to reach the parts of the plant that are furthest from the roots there needs to be a good flow of water through the plant. The fruits are distant from the roots and do not compete as well as the leaves for calcium, leading to a local lack of calcium at the ends of the fruit.

Plants grown with limited root space (e.g. in pots or growing bags) are most at risk of irregular water supply leading to local calcium deficiency in the fruits. Plants in border soil, whether outdoors or in the greenhouse, are less likely to be affected.

http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?pid=395



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