[Grubbypaws]

We have had to cut down a cedar tree which was likely to cause structural damage and are left with a stump. To remove this would be very difficult and costly    I have treated it with glycophosphate but am anxious about getting honey fungus; cedars are prone to it.

Is there anything that I can do to lessen the chance? Would covering it with something to stop the spores getting on to it help or are they just in the soil?

Any tips would be really welcome.

[LotuSeed]

Is there any sign of honey fungus present on your property now? If not I wouldn't worry too much about it, but would keep an eye on it.  (Especially since you said the tree was removed because of structural damage and not because honey fungus had gotten to it). 


If it's already present, it's the rhizomes in the soil that will cause trouble rather than the spores. You could try digging out as much of the topsoil from around the stump and roots as possible. You'd want to dig deep enough (to the sub soil) so that you can get the rhizomes out. Don't compost or reuse and of the soil you dig out though. It will need to be disposed of in such a way as to prevent contamination. (Hot composting might work, but I'm not sure what temp is needed to kill the rhizomes.)  If there there any other plants in the general area of the cedar stump, it might be worth removing the topsoil from around them as well, and replacing it with new dirt.  Mind you this is really labor intensive and probably only necessary if you know that the fungus is active on your site already.

[bendipa]

Glyphosate isn't much use at this time of year for killing plants as they are dormant and the tree sap needs to be active to absorb it.  July - Oct are the best months to use it. SBK Brushwood Killer is a better choice as it can be used in winter to kill tree stumps.

Your tree roots would be just as much an attraction for honey fungus as  the stump. But if there is no HF lurking in your area then no need to worry unduly since it devours living as well as dead material and so could appear, regardless of chopping down your tree.

When it's dead I would get the stump grinded down which is a cheaper alternative to pulling the whole thing out as it will lessen the chance of fungal attraction, as you can get rid of the resulting sawdust, although most fungi are harmless and only devour deadwood and rot it down then die, unlike HF which moves through the soil looking for any plant to attack.

[fatcat1955]

Drill some 25mm holes with a flat bit into the stump. Fill holes with root out and cover the stump with polythene and secure it. Stump and roots will be killed .

[Grubbypaws]

Bendipa,
 I think that you are wrong about timing. The RHS says 'The best time to apply stump killers is from autumn to winter. Avoid treatment in spring and early summer when the sap is rising ' and 'Applications in the fall are effective as the stump is moving proteins and carbohydrates to the root zone for overwintering, hastening the herbicide reaching the roots to kill the stump and roots'.
 

[Grubbypaws]

Drill some 25mm holes with a flat bit into the stump. Fill holes with root out and cover the stump with polythene and secure it. Stump and roots will be killed .

The RHS says 'Stump and root killers currently on the market are those containing glyphosate (e.g. Scotts Roundup Tree Stump & Rootkiller, Bayer Tree Stump Killer, Doff Tree Stump & Tough Weedkiller and William Sinclair Deep Root Ultra Tree Stump & Weedkiller) or triclopyr (Vitax SBK Brushwood Killer)'.

Does root out contain glycophosphate or triclopyr? Which is best for the job and which is least harmful to the planet? I hardly ever use chemicals but have been slightly reassured about using glycophosphate when absolutely necessary as is is broken down on contact with the soil.

[mumofstig]

(Amcide) Ammonium Sulphamate  used to be used, see John's info here

http://www.allotment-garden.org/growing/mares-horse-tail-control.php

[bendipa]

Bendipa,
 I think that you are wrong about timing. The RHS says 'The best time to apply stump killers is from autumn to winter. Avoid treatment in spring and early summer when the sap is rising ' and 'Applications in the fall are effective as the stump is moving proteins and carbohydrates to the root zone for overwintering, hastening the herbicide reaching the roots to kill the stump and roots'.
 

I am not sure that is correct as far as glyphosate is concerned. Eg if you use glyphosate to spray on leaves of plants the instructions are to use it from May to July while the plant is most actively growing. By winter all plants go dormant, so there's little if any movement of sap, so it makes little sense to use it then.  SBK works in a totally different way in its chemical treatment and is the traditional stump killer being used all year round. It's more toxic to the soil unlike glyphosate. But I stand to be corrected.